A few weeks back, Eric Asimov, wine columnist for the NY Times, penned a fascinating article that struck a familiar chord. He discussed a growing trend among California vintners that steers away from the "round, ripe, extravagant" pinot noirs and toward lighter, more finessed pinots. Many of the vintners Asimov interviewed sensed a frustration with any style of wine that might not always be food friendly, or casually drinkable. A movement (Asimov calls it a rebellion!) away from total devotion to big wines and toward more readily, easily quaffable ones? He never uses the term "session wine", but he might as well have. he liked the word "finesse".
Sound familiar? To many fellow beer geeks it does, and Lew Bryson has been leading the discussion for a while now on his The Session Beer Project blog. It's nice to see the wine world playing catch up.